Author Topic: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)  (Read 4559 times)

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #60 on: May 24, 2017, 08:59:38 am »
Next step was to set up the sending unit.  The sending unit provided with the kit is a nice piece and came with very clear instructions on how to set the proper depth and swing radius.  Below is a picture of the chart that was provided with the sending unit. 



Final result was this:



I had cut out masking tape template from the gasket provided with the sending unit and put that in place over the sending unit opening prior to applying Shark Hyde to the tank.  I did this so there would be no Shark Hyde where the gasket mated against the tank surface.  Unfortunately, I don't have a picture, but I think it is self explanatory enough.  Just don't use the Shark Hyde where you will be adding chemical sealant.

I also added the fittings to connect AN lines to the steel 3/8 fuel line already in the car.  It was a little difficult finding a 12AN fitting that reduced to a 6AN but I did find one with a 90 bend made by Earls performance. 



After looking at this fitting, I realized that I didn't like the proximity of the nut to the panhard support bar and found another fitting with a different profile that gave me a bit more room:



I also capped off the return line using an Earls Performance AN fitting.  The additional port in the tank that is covered by blue tape in the backround will go to the vent tube.  This has to be positioned higher on the car than anywhere else in the fuel system so I will wait to install it for now.










« Last Edit: May 25, 2017, 08:56:22 am by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #61 on: May 24, 2017, 09:59:41 am »
TIME TO UNBOX THE BEAST!!



I went back and forth about renting vs. owning an engine hoist.  It would cost 20 bucks to rent for a day, 50 bucks per week or I could just buy one for about 200.  I decided that since this is a kit car and I do not do anything in a speedy fashion, I would purchase one.  As you will see, it turned out to be a good investment because I had a few issues joining the engine and trans that took about 3 weeks to sort out.  I found a Strongway on sale at Northern Tool for $180 bucks.  It folds so it should store easily.  It'll be nice for servicing my lawn mower to.  I pulled the boxes out of the trunk and put Levi to work building it.  I had to pitch in a fair amount but we got it done.



After putting the hoist together we pulled the engine out of the crate the following day.  I have to admit, I was present for all three of my kids births and I cried at every one...when this sucker came out of the box, I felt a little teary eyed too. ;D




« Last Edit: May 24, 2017, 02:51:32 pm by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

Bob Worley

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #62 on: May 24, 2017, 11:44:36 am »
What is "Shark Hyde"?
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aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #63 on: May 24, 2017, 01:07:15 pm »
It's an aluminum sealer.  They use it on Pontoons and boats but it seals all raw aluminum from the elements.  Just google Sharkhyde.  I learned about it from the popular "Cobra Kit cars" book that's out there.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2017, 02:52:29 pm by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #64 on: May 25, 2017, 05:45:44 pm »
Next order of business was to install the Energy Suspension motor mounts.  First of all, let me say, these mounts are unbelievable.  You can tell they are well built.  The only problem with them is that Energy Suspension did not design them to fit on a DART 351w.  They will fit any other 351w just fine but the DART has a reinforcement web cast into the block that interferes with the motor mount and causes it not to sit tight against the block.  Its frustrating as all heck but it is fixable.  A call to DART manufacturing revealed that the easiest fix was to recess the rear angle of the engine mount where it sits against the block.  Some people use a grinding wheel to accomplish this.  Since I was to lazy to go the Harbor Freight and purchase one for $29.95 I used a round file instead.  This worked fine but took forever and induced carpal tunnel.  One of the reasons I wanted to use a round file was that it would leave a smoothly filed surface and be less likely to stress fracture.  These mounts are beefy anyway so it was probably overkill. Oh, well.  The picture below shows where you have to file and the depth I was at here is probably only 30% of the way.  You have to go really deep at an angle, almost to the point of opening a hole up right on the angle.



After the mounts were installed, I installed my Edelbrock Mechanical fuel pump.  Since this is engine is running a carb I only need a pump to produce 6 psi but be high flow.  This one fit the bill and installed easily.  After rotating the crank to get it to fit over the eccentric properly, it went right in.




« Last Edit: May 27, 2017, 09:25:38 pm by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

s_reynolds

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #65 on: November 25, 2017, 01:00:23 pm »
Aaron, how's the build going? Any updates?

Sam