Author Topic: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)  (Read 4562 times)

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #30 on: January 02, 2017, 05:42:49 pm »
I wasn't at all comfortable with the "T" located on the top of the differential.  It looked like it would slam into the trunk floor if the differential moved all the way up in its suspension travel.  So I experimented with some different locations on the differential cover as well as different types of flexible brake lines to run to the chase hard line.  The following pictures represent what is hopefully the final set up.  i routed the flexible brake line over the rear tunnel braces.  I am not sure if this is OK so I thought I would get your thoughts prior to clamping the hose to the cross brace.  The axle is fully suspended off the ground so I am thinking the axle is as far down as it will travel so it should be fine...thoughts?

This is a view from the rear:


Here is a view from the front:


Here is another view:
« Last Edit: January 02, 2017, 05:45:38 pm by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

mandmGuys

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #31 on: January 03, 2017, 03:37:31 pm »
Looks good.

Mark

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #32 on: January 25, 2017, 08:42:31 am »
On advice from some other builders, I removed the calipers and painted them with some high temp engine paint.  I went down to the local NAPA parts store and picked the paint up for 10 bucks.   It was easy to do and I was very happy with the results:





Here is a picture of the front caliper mounting brackets installed for reference, this is the bracket that holds the front caliper on the spindle:

From the the rear of the car:



From the front of the car:


« Last Edit: January 26, 2017, 12:35:15 am by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #33 on: January 25, 2017, 09:08:39 am »
Next step was to install the fuel line.  I have a 607hp and 585 ft/lb 427w with a Quick Fuel carb and a mechanical fuel pump that is going to be pushing this thing down the road.  Its a beast.  I was a little worried about how to properly feed the beast and I figured a huge fuel line was going to be the ticket BUT...a call to Mr. Kim at Smeding Performance answered the question for me.  He said they dyno'd those numbers off the motor feeding it with a 3/8 line and a mechanical pump that produced 6 psi, so that is what I decided to go with.  I like the KISS principles (keep it simple stupid).  The kit comes with aluminum line which is really easy to manipulate into place, however, its my opinion that with all the rocks and road debris on the road in Minnesota a steel line would be safer, so I ordered some steel line from Summit and made the fuel line.  I had to order two additional lines before I got it right...man, steel is a bear to bend properly (make sure you get a tubing bender).  Another thing, the plans call out using zinc plated cushioned rubber clamps (which are good) and drilling for a #10 screw to hold them down (which is good).  However, I decided to go stainless steel on the clamps and screws because nothing is worse then trying to remove corroded parts.  So a trip to the local Fastenal store had me ordering a bunch of stainless steel cushioned clamps and stainless steel 10/32 allen head screws, which I drilled and tapped into the frame to hold all the lines (brake and fuel).

The picture here shows the the routing of the rear portion of the fuel line:


Here is yours truly drilling the holes for the cushioned clamps:


Tapping the holes:


The finished result:










« Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 09:12:55 am by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #34 on: January 25, 2017, 09:26:44 am »
Next step was to install the brake lines.  This was even more of a learning curve as the tubes are smaller, the turns and bends are tighter and you will DEFINITELY need to learn how to cut and flare brake line.  I called one of my buddies who has an Eastwood tube brake line flaring tool.  It is the expensive one that mounts in a vise.  Let me tell you, spend the $250 to get this thing.  It effortlessly makes perfect flares in seconds for brake lines.

I installed the front hard line first:



This was brought around to a "T" on the drivers side of the car and the drivers front caliper hard line came down from the coupler to the "T to join the front hard line: 



Here is how I secured this "T" to keep it from moving:



From the "T" the front main hard line was installed running along the main frame rail, then up over the frame rail, into the brake light switch (Napa part number SL144) and then another small line was added to run to the master cylinder mounted farthest to the right in the group of master cylinders.



Here is a picture of the brake light switch and shorter line running to the master cylinder. To make some of those tight bends I used an extension attached to a socket installed in a vise and applied muscular persuasion to make those curves.  The vise held the extension with the socket flush on the vise.  I slowly bent the tube around the socket being careful not to kink the line.  My thumbs hurt for a week. Also, note that on the master cylinder I used a 90 degree fitting with NPT on one end and and standard flare on the other end for the brake line:











« Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 10:18:37 am by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #35 on: January 25, 2017, 09:31:53 am »
Installing the rear brake main hard line was a simpler task.  I used a longer brake line and bent it to place the coupler in a position that I could easily get a wrench on it if it needed to be replaced at some point:





Here is Levi drilling the holes for all the cushioned clamps:





Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #36 on: January 25, 2017, 09:33:40 am »
I also wanted to show how I supported the front hard line:





Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #37 on: January 25, 2017, 10:01:36 am »
Next step was installing the e-brake cables and cable housings:

First was to install this cable block on the frame cross member.  The supplied cable block does not fit using the existing holes so it becomes necessary to disassemble it and drill a hole between the two existing holes to fit it to the cross-member.  The manual has a perfect picture for this.  I also temporarily installed the e-brake handle.  To cut the housings and cables I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $7 cable cutter.  I then taped the ends of the cables and cut the cables and cable housings (Separately).  The cheap HF cable cutter did its job well and left no cable fraying.



I routed the cables in a neat curve to the frame:





Its a little difficult to see but you can see where the stainless steel clamps are placed to hold the cables in position:





I then attached the cable housings together using a 1/2 stainless steel cushioned clamp and bent them down so I could eventually attach them to the cockpit tub when it is in place:





« Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 10:20:37 am by aarvig »
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #38 on: January 25, 2017, 10:10:57 am »
Next on the list was battery cable installation.  I attached the battery cables at these two points going up into the trunk.  I am going to leave the cables loose above this point for now:



I am a little worried about the placement of that upper screw.  It may prove difficult to remove with the tub in place.  Once I get the tub fitted I will check it to see if I can remove it and if not, I may have to come up with an alternate location for the screw. 



Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #39 on: January 25, 2017, 10:13:44 am »
Here is where I am right now.  All suspension components are in, brakes are on, e-brake cables/housings are in, brake lines are on, master cylinders are in.  Next step is fuel tank and then ENGINE/TRANS!!!

Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.

s_reynolds

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #40 on: January 25, 2017, 10:14:23 am »
Making good progress and doing good work as well. Can't wait to see your next update.

Sam

Bob Worley

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #41 on: January 25, 2017, 02:53:27 pm »
Looking good, I wish I had gone with stainless brake and fuel just because it looks so nice... i'm not going back to redo it now.   Definitely need a $250 flaring tool as well. 
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Russ Rittimann

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #42 on: January 26, 2017, 06:04:04 am »
Looking really good Aaron!!!!  You're doing some great work.

Russ
Russ
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Paul Proefrock

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #43 on: January 26, 2017, 07:13:15 pm »
Has anyone told Aaron about the tradition of throwing a big barBQue for all the Hurricane owners when the car is road-worthy?

aarvig

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Re: HM-2016 BUILD THREAD (MN)
« Reply #44 on: January 26, 2017, 08:56:16 pm »
Has anyone told Aaron about the tradition of throwing a big barBQue for all the Hurricane owners when the car is road-worthy?

Beers, burgers and brats at my place when it's done!!!
Now I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear Lord, protect my hide.